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Travelling with Ruth Ellen Gruber

Ruth Ellen Gruber is one of the most respected journalists and authors working in Central and Eastern Europe. Aside from contributing articles to The New York Times and other publications, Ruth is the Senior European Correspondent of The Jewish Telegraphic Agency. Ruth’s books on Jewish Eastern Europe include “Upon the Doorposts of Thy House,” “Jewish Heritage Travel,” and “Virtually Jewish”.

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Lipot Baumhorn Tour

by Ruth Ellen Gruber

travel - lipot

BUDAPEST -- Back in the early 1990s, I picked my way through Budapest's enormous main Jewish cemetery, trying to find the grave of Lipot Baumhorn, an architect who was long-forgotten but whose body of work once held pride of place in cities and towns the length and breadth of Hungary.
I followed a cemetery attendant past the huge memorial crypts of once-great families and through a forest of tombstones overgrown with shrubs, bushes, saplings and trees.
Baumhorn's tomb, a vertical slab more than two meters tall, was totally obscured by a wild growth of ivy. I pulled away the clinging vines to reveal the face of the stone. Under a poetic epitaph I found a long list of synagogues that Baumhorn had either designed or remodeled.
And at the top of the tombstone, depicted floating amid clouds, was a carving of the great dome that surmounts his masterpiece, the New Synagogue in the southeast Hungarian town of Szeged, a grand and eclectic building bristling with buttresses, spires, cupolas and other ornamentation.
Baumhorn, who lived from 1860 to 1932, built, designed or worked on more than two dozen synagogues. The epitaph on his tombstone describes his creations as "synagogues that look toward heaven and awaken piety."
Some of his synagogues were destroyed during or after World War II. But a number still stand, in one form or another, and over the years I have made it a point to visit them.
Most are -- or were -- highly ornate, and their size and grandeur bear witness to the pride and prosperity of Hungary's pre-Holocaust Jewish community. Many feature decorative brickwork and window arrangements of panes and panels cut and fitted into an arched form.
Baumhorn synagogues stand in most corners of Hungary, as well as in neighboring regions of Slovakia, Romania and Serbia. Visiting them is a good way to get a feel for the vitality of the Jewish world that was destroyed in the Holocaust.

travel - budapest

Budapest: Though born in the small town of Kisber, Lipot Baumhorn lived and worked in Budapest. One of his most ambitious designs was a competition entry for a massive new synagogue planned for the downtown Lipotvaros district, which never was built. Four of his synagogues and a huge family mausoleum still stand in the capital.

 

 

 

 

 

Pava Street synagogue
The most easily accessible of Baumhorn's Budapest synagogues is the one built in the 1920s on Pava St. Long empty, it has been fully restored and now forms the core of Budapest's new Holocaust memorial and museum complex, which open ed in 2004.

Synagogue on Dosza Gyorgy Boulevard
The large synagogue, built in 1908 on a busy traffic artery, features typical Baumhorn touches, such as rose windows and sweeping decorative ribbing around the gables and windows. It is used as a sports hall but retains the decoration on the inside of its dome.

Hegedus Gyula utca 55 
Built in 1926-27 in a downtown courtyard and still used as a house of worship, this little synagogue was Baumhorn's first collaborative work with his son-in-law, Gyorgy Somogyi.

Betlen ter 
This small prayer hall, located inside a big school building and built in 1932, was the last synagogue designed by Baumhorn (in partnership with Somogyi). It is still used as a house of worship.


travel - Ujhely family tomb, Kozma utca Jewish cemetery
Ujhely family tomb, Kozma utca Jewish cemetery
Bigger than some houses, this grandly domed tomb features some of the architectural elements found in Baumhorn's synagogues.

 

 

 

 

 

Szeged

Baumhorn's masterpiece, completed in 1903, is one of the largest and most ornate synagogues in Europe. It has an enormous dome and sumptuous interior ornamentation. Still owned by the Jewish community, it forms part of a communal complex that also includes a small chapel. Baumhorn also designed the ceremonial hall in the Szeged Jewish cemetery.


Szolnok
Built in 1898-1899 on the bank of the Tisza river, this graceful, domed synagogue was seriously damaged in World War II and restored and converted into an art gallery in 1972. Its external appearance remains intact, but much of the interior decoration has been painted over.

sztergom
Built in 1888, this was Baumhorn's first synagogue, and it is quite different from his others. Today used as the offices of a technical institute, it was constructed in the Moorish style and features bright orange stripes, a central dome, fretted Oriental style horseshoe arches and bulbous cupolas at the top edges of the rectangular facade. A small Holocaust memorial, a stark sculpture of an anguished human figure, stands in front of the building.

Keckemet
After earthquake damage in 1911, Baumhorn restored the main synagogue here (which is now offices, lectures halls and a gallery), adding a Lotus dome to its central tower.

Cegled
Built in 1905, this rather boxy synagogue with pale yellow brick outer walls was converted in the decades after World War II into a sports hall.

travel - Gyongyos
Gyongyos

Baumhorn designed this synagogue in 1931, in partnership with his son-in-law. It has always reminded me of the Taj Mahal. Today, the synagogue is used as a furniture store, but many of the interior decorative elements remain surprisingly intact.

 

 

 

Nyiregyhaza
Built in the 1920s, this synagogue is still used as a house of worship by the local Jewish community.

Novi Sad, Serbia
This grandiose domed synagogue boasts vast arches, two massive, cupola-topped towers and a beautiful inner cupola. Built in 1906 as part of a Jewish communal complex, it has been restored for use as a concert hall.

Nitra, Slovakia
Built in 1910 and considered one of Baumhorn's finest designs, the synagogue has recently been totally restored and now houses a striking exhibition on the Holocaust. The structure features Baumhorn's trademark ribbing and brickwork.

travel - Lucenec, Slovakia
Lucenec, Slovakia

Once one of Baumhorn's most magnificent creations, the huge domed synagogue has stood empty and ruined for many years, despite local efforts to restore it.
Liptovsky Mikulas, Slovakia
Baumhorn remodeled the interior of this neo-classic synagogue.

 

 

 

 

Brasov, Romania
Built in 1901, this grandiose synagogue is still used by the local Jewish community. There were celebrations in 2001 to mark its centenary.

Timisoara, Romania
One of Baumhorn's most ornate synagogues, the so-called Fabric synagogue was built in 1903 and features a tall dome, cupolas, massive arches and rose windows. It has stood in sad disrepair for years.

Ruth Grubers' Archive:
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Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (ruth@ruthellengruber.com)   2010-07-16
Rees -- try searching on the JewishGen.org site or some of the other Jewish genealogy site. They furnish a lot of info, names and other tips
Posted by: Rees Chapman   (winwinsit@gmail.com)   2010-07-07
Ruth, can you direct me to a source of birth/marriage records for 2 Jewish families from 1880-1920 who lived in Sharhorod and Luchynets in Vinnitsa in the Ukraine? (Surnames were Malchuck and Corn/Cornman/Kornman) Should I write the mayors? The rabbis? Any historians? My wife and I hope to visit the area in a year or so, but we first want to confirm their ancestry there.
Posted by: Sue M.   (maggin555@hotmail.com)   2010-07-04
Dear Ruth, Just found Centropa.org after doing much searching on line...and only 4 days before relatives are traveling to Hungary...looking for sources of Jewish family history for Velikiy Berezna, which by my estimate would be 180 miles northeast of Budapest...do you kow of anyone in that area who goes there? Who has knowledge of what may be left after all these years? Any guidance is greatly appreciated. My thanks. Marian
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (ruth@ruthellengruber.com)   2010-07-01
I do have some pictures but from quite a few years ago, and it would take a bit of time to find them... Ruth
Posted by: Ruth Kinsley   (ruth_kinsley@yahoo.com)   2010-06-30
Hello, Ruth, I'm writing to ask if you, or any other readers, has an image of the Jewish cemetery in Satoraljaujhely. My husband and I just came back from a visit to the town, but our camera got lost. My father was born there - my maiden name was Friedman. Thanks so much, Ruth
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (ruth@ruthellengruber.com)   2010-02-26
Bella -- check Jewish Gen http://data.jewishgen.org/wconnect/wc.dll?jg~jgsys~shtetm~-1047220
Posted by: BeMurovanyyella Greene   (belgreen@telus.net)   2010-02-25
Goodday Ruth, I tried looking for Murovanyye Kurilovtsy, Ukraine but can't find anything. All the documents I have say Kirilovtze Podolia USSR. Perhaps the spelling is wrong but I can't read Russian that is one of the passports I have. Regards, Bella
Posted by: Rina Levi   (mytikvah@yahoo.com)   2010-01-15
I think you have the most fascinating jobs. A few years ago I bought your book Jewish Heritage Travel. Had I known when I went to university what my passion was, I would have probably followed in your footsteps (instead of being an actuary. My husband and I try to travel to Europe every few years and my passion is old Synagogues. I have quite a few books on their architecture and the jewish community history. We are off to Romania, Bulgaria and Istanbul this summer and everytime I do a google search I come back to you. I wanted to thank you for everything you do. Rina
Posted by: Ruth Ellen   ()   2010-01-15
Thanks, Rina! There is a lot on Romania (and some on Bulgaria) on my blogs.
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (ruth@ruthellengruber.com)   2010-01-12
You probably mean Murovanyye Kurilovtsy, Ukraine
Posted by: Bella Greene   (belgreen@telus.net)   2010-01-11
Good day, I was wondering if you have ever heard of a place by the name of Kirilovtze Russia? My father as well as his family are from there. My father was born in 1921. Some of his family moved to New York in 1924.
Posted by: Marty Blank   (marty@mblank.com)   2009-09-24
Ruth, do you know where I can get information about Dvitrovka?
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (ruth@ruthellengruber.com)   2009-09-24
Marty -- I think the town you mean is Dmytivka, east of Kiev, which I think is in the Chernigov (or Chernihov) oblast. You may be able to find info online, somewhere at JewishGen.org -- the base data bank page is http://data.jewishgen.org/wconnect/wc.dll?jg~jgsys~shtetm~-1037824 But I would also suggest getting in touch with Miriam Weiner and her "routes to roots" service and foundation. She specializes in Jewish heritage/genealogy research in Ukraine and knows more than anyone. http://www.routestoroots.com/webs.html or http://rtrfoundation.org/ There is also a Jewish research institute in Kiev that may have material. chrs. Ruth
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (ruth@ruthellengruber.com)   2009-09-24
Marty -- Sorry, I keep making spelling errors. I think the town you mean is now known as Dmytrivka. Ruth
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (ruth@ruthellengruber.com)   2009-09-21
No -- most of the sites I cover are in western Ukraine. I do have entries more or less near Dvitrovka on Kharkov and Dnepropetrovsk.
Posted by: marty blank   (marty@mblank.com)   2009-09-18
Ruth, does your book cover the town of Dmitrovka in the Ukraine?
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (ruth@ruthellengruber.com)   2009-07-17
I do mention "The Lost" -- right in the second paragraph.
Posted by: Froma Zeitlin   (fiz@princeton.edu)   2009-05-31
How could one not mention Daniel Mendelsohn's prize winning magnificent book, The Lost, which is all about Bolechow and his search for 6 missing relatives there?
Posted by: n   (loverly@ca.rr.com)   2007-03-22
I am hoping to speak or email with Ms. Collier! My realitves are from Ricse and I am taking my Mom back there for the first time since the war. She too was taken to Auschwitz. Her Uncle was Adolf Zukor. And my Great Grandfather is buried there. We are going there in July and I am hoping to speak with her and see what contacts she has there that may help us. Her story of finding her cousin moved me so. I am hoping for an experience like that for my Mom. She lost so many loved ones in the war. Can someone at this publication help me contact her? Thank you! And of course.... like her...all my mother does is bake cakes for the world! Her passion and how she is know by all she meets. As no one leaves without one!
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (r@reg.com)   2007-03-21
Hi -- I want to let everyone know that my new book, "National Geographic Jewish Heritage Travel: A Guide to Eastern Europe," officially came out today, March 20. It''s a new, updated and expanded edition of my original Jewish Heritage Travel, which first came out in back in 1992 -- a lot has changed since then.... The new edition includes 14 countries -- Poland, Ukraine, Lithuania, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia-Hercegovina, Macedonia, and Montenegro. Lithuania and Ukraine (mainly western Ukraine) are newly added; sites in the other countries have been updated. There are all-new pictures, and the book has been redesigned. I include web resources and publications, as well as addresses for kosher facilities, synagogues, etc. Alas, there was only room to note a few of the Jewish culture/music/etc festivals in the region, but there is a book-event for it scheduled for this summer''s Krakow festival, and probably also one in Prague the week before that. The book is available at internet bookselling sites and (I hope) in bookstores. Happy Trails Ruth
Posted by: ruth Ellen Gruber   (r@reg.com)   2007-03-09
There is a tremendous amount of material on contemporary Jewish communities and life in Europe. The most up to date may be in the media. JTA has run a lot recently, and you can check the archives at www.jta.org. Also, many Jewish communities maintain web sites. Some local Jewish newspapers in various cities and countries are also posted in full on the web
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (r@reg.com)   2007-03-09
Hi -- Soragna is a little market town, about 28 km from Parma. The synagogue and little Jewish museum complex is on, I think, via Cavour, just opposite the huge early Baroque castle that dominates the town. Ruth
Posted by: sfienberg   (sfienberg@bellnet.ca)   2007-02-27
I would like to visit the Soragna Synogogue in Parma. Can you provide me with a municipal address
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   (r@reg.com)   2007-02-23
Hi Marta -- great to hear from you! The Trieste Jewish community now has a web site with contact information -- www.triestebraica.it. It's probably the best place to start. ciao Ruth
Posted by: Robert Shechter   (robs11@verizon.net)   2007-02-23
Hello Ruth - I have enjoyed your writing for many years. Could you please refer me to the most up-to-date studies/books/papers on contemporary Jewish life in Europe. This would include demographics, rabbinic leadership, and cultural/ religious institutions. Thank you kindly.
Posted by: lynne groban   (lgroban@comcast.net)   2007-02-23
Do you have or know of anyone who can provide current information on Jewish Turkey? Thanks.
Posted by: Ronnie Ptasznik   (ronptasz@bigpond.net.au)   2007-02-23
RE Dzialoszyce On the right of the synagogue you picture is an even older building, the Bet Midrash or house of learning. My family lived in Dzialoszyce for at least 400 years and my fathers family made saddles and matresses. The vice Mayor of the town was Jewish as you were not allowed to be Mayor if you were Jewish. There is a quiet forest near the synagogue where most of the younger members of the community were taken and shot in 1942. There is a memorial there, the rest of the community was killed at Belzec. When I visited there I found 2 drunks sitting in the middle of the destroyed synagogue drinking beer. When I considered the countless high holidays and celebrations that must have taken place in that spot over hundreds of years I thought It was one of the saddest sights I have seen. The town had it's own Chassidic Rav whose son survived the war and died about 10 years ago in Belgium. I visited there but just missed out on seeing him. I spoke to his wife who was originally American but knew little of Dzialoszyce before the war. Many in the town, my family included supplemented their income by smuggling accross the Russian border. The end of WW1 saw the border move further away and hence the town suffered economically. Ronnie Ptasznik Melbourne Australia.
Posted by: Marta Halpert   (m.halpert@aon.at)   2007-02-20
Dear Ruth, Read your exciting page on Trieste, really great! Would you know if there is a SEDER to be booked in Trieste for guests like us?? Do you have any contact for me to the Jewish community, where to ask? Thanks a lot, best regards, Reinhard and Marta Vienna
Posted by: Samuel Chackinsky   (samchalk@earthlink.net)   2007-02-17
I think Prague is over-rated and overly expensive and not really worth it. Given the choice, I prefer Vienna. Expensive but worth it, at least...
Posted by: Marta Halpert   (m.halpert@aon.at)   2007-02-16
Dear Ruth, Read your exciting page on Trieste, really great! Would you know if there is a SEDER to be booked in Trieste for guests like us?? Do you have any contact for me to the Jewish community, where to ask? Thanks a lot, best regards, Reinhard and Marta Vienna
Posted by: Marta Halpert   (m.halpert@aon.at)   2007-02-16
Dear Ruth, Read your exciting page on Trieste, really great! Would you know if there is a SEDER to be booked in Trieste for guests like us?? Do you have any contact for me to the Jewish community, where to ask? Thanks a lot, best regards, Reinhard and Marta Vienna
Posted by: Robert Shechter   (robs11@verizon.net)   2007-02-16
Hello Ruth - I have enjoyed your writing for many years. Could you please refer me to the most up-to-date studies/books/papers on contemporary Jewish life in Europe. This would include demographics, rabbinic leadership, and cultural/ religious institutions. Thank you kindly.
Posted by: Frederick Sweet   (dadsweet@earthlink.net)   2006-09-14
I must apologize for misspelling your name Ms. Gruber -- due to my terrible typing "skills." As a footnote to my earlier message, I wish to add that the unique octagonal synagogue in Györ (an ancient city located midway between Budapest and Vienna) has finally been restored with national and municipal funds (costing some $2.5-million). Györ can readily be reached by train -- several leave and return each day from Budapest. By car, it is about a two hour drive (100 miles). This month, the Budapest Sun ran a comprehensive story about the renovation and opening of the synagogue of Györ: http://www.budapestsun.com/full_story.asp?ArticleId={A0567A02C32B451BA8E38DAB75E3529B}&From=
Posted by: Frederick Sweet   (dadsweet@earthlink.net)   2006-09-14
I very much enjoyed Ruth Ellen Grube's tour through the VII District in Budapest. My mother Szerén Kálmán had grown up on Rumbach Street at building 15, adjacent to the Rumbach utca templóm [Rumbach Street Temple] which is building 13.Luckily for us, she immigrated to America in 1924 at the age of 21, and met my father -- also from Budapest -- in new York City. The recent good news about the Rumbach utca templóm is that it has been restored, see: http://www.budapestsun.com/full_story.asp?ArticleId={041528B847B94D2C88B637252DFEA0E4}&From=Style Since 2002, my wife and I have owned an apartment nearby on Szentkirályi Street. We spend about three months each year there. Each of us has been officially working in Hungary as U.S.-Hungary exchange scholars since the mid-1970s. Ms. Gruber's well researched tour is among the best that I have seen. Frederick Sweet St. Louis
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   ()   2006-08-15
Sorry, I haven't visited Svencionys, but I know there are at least two monuments near there marking the mass graves of Jews from the town and nearby villages murdered in the Holocaust. FYI I just visited a number of other sites in Lithuania, which I will include in the forthcoming new edition of Jewish Heritage Travel (to be published by National Geographic in March 2007). The new edition will also, for the first time, include sites in Ukraine and Austria (as well as updated information on sites in the countries covered in the first three editions of the book). Ruth
Posted by: anita wornick   (awornick@aol.com)   2006-08-09
I wonder if you have ever visited the town of Svencyonis in Lithuania...about 50 miles n.e.or n.w. of Vilna. My grandmother came from there and I have read the necrology of those killed by the Nazis and found my great grandparents names. I am curious as to whether there is anything left of the Jewish community there today? Thanks. Anita Wornick
Posted by: Solomon   (solomon.bali@gmail.com)   2006-06-07
Dear Ruth, I finally find way to be in touch with you. Please replay on my new e-mail address. Best regards Solomon Sofia, Bulgaria
Posted by: p maher   (jpmaher@neiu.edu)   2006-01-16
Dear Lorna Cohen, I've read your piece on Dubovnik with interest What was the precise damage done to the synagogue roof? Interior? Were there direct hits, or was it concussion damage? Ordnance used? Did you see the damage? May I ask who your sources of information were? I'd be grateful for any information as I am collecting setails of the effects on the synagogue. J. P. Maher, Professor Emeritus
Posted by: Lorna Cohen   (ornacohen@blueyonder.co.uk)   2006-01-09
I am looking for a good English speaking guide who can give a small Jewish Group a tour of the Synagogue and history of the Jews of Dubrovnik...weekend 28/29/ April Thanks Lorna C
Posted by: Aaron Wilk   (aaronwilk@gamil.com)   2006-01-09
I am a member of the National Yiddish Book Center and I read in their most recent magazine that they are leading a 10 day literary and cultural tour of Eastern Europe. I think they advertised that their tour is pretty small and is staying at superior hotels. Their website is www.yiddishbookcenter.org. Hope this helps, Aaron W.
Posted by: Margaret   (mnlbach@aol.com)   2006-01-06
I'm planning a "roots" trip to Poland in March, focusing on the cities of Poznan, Gneizno and Wroclaw, and am seeing a knowledgable guide with a car, over a period of 3-4 days. Any suggestions?
Posted by: Cathy   (cathy@cre8iveinc.com)   2005-12-23
Do you know the name (s) of any Jewish tour groups that do 1- 1 /2 weeks tours in eastern Europe - medium size group- Superior hotels and age bracket of 50-60 Thanks in advance, Cathy
Posted by: Richard Hyman   (dadhy@comcast.net)   2005-12-01
Do you lead tours? If so, what's your schedule? Thanks
Posted by: Christina Selk   (chanteuse81@yahoo.com)   2005-10-20
I am an art history student enrolled in a Jewish Art class and doing a paper on the synagogue in Szeged. I have come across several of your articles and books during my research and they have been the most useful along with the Dorfman's Synagogues without Jews. Do you know of anyone I could contact (perhaps in Szeged) for some clarification about a few things? For example, the side balconies were originally women's galleries, correct? My Hungarian is abysmal (much to the dismay of my grandfather), but I can correspond in English or French.
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   ()   2005-09-27
I forgot to add that the motorway in Hungary has been extended from Budapest all the way to Miskolc, cutting considerable time from the drive to the Tokaj region. Ruth
Posted by: Ruth Ellen Gruber   ()   2005-09-27
Thanks to all of you for your comments. Here are some important updates to information in my travel pieces. TOKAJ Thanks to a generous donation from a former Tokaj resident, the small prayer house in Tokaj has been completely renovated and equipped with a kosher kitchen, dining/study area, guest room. and restroom facilities. The big syngogue is being renovated for use as a concert hall, with a Holocaust museum and exhibition on local Jewish traditions on an upper floor. MAD The synagogue in Mad has been totally restored and reopened as a cultural site. The sensitive restoration was awarded a 2004 Europa Nostra Prize. Don''t miss it! BUDAPEST A Holocaust memorial/museum/study center opened in 2004 in a complex centered on the restored Lipot Baumhorn synagogue on Pava St.
Posted by: Philip Windsor   (ppwindsor@aol.com)   2005-09-03
Your magazine is a joy to read! Congratulations on presentation and content: quite superb. I much enjoyed Ruth Gruber's article on Krakow, having visited there last May. The old synagogues are a delight, but poignant too. A very emotional experience for me was to sit in a completely empty shul watching a wartime black & white video of the ghetto. If I have to offer some criticism of Kazimirz, it would be that there is an element of fantasy in the re-created Jewish character of the quarter. The restaurants and cafes particularly feel like that. There is Hebrew lettering and Jewish memorabilia everywhere, but it is impossible to forget that these places are not really Jewish at all, just reconstructions for the present-day tourists. However, Krakow is well worth a visit and I can highly recommend Hotel Copernicus PW
Posted by: Michael Antin   (mantin@ix.netcom.com)   2005-06-29
The article on Krakow brought back our recent memories of May, 05, visit there. However, while there, I visited the Remu Synagogue during my tour of Central Europe in May. In the wing of the Building are ceiling hangings. The one #9 states that the Syngogue was built and named for Rabbi Remu (Moses Isserles) and he converted the Sephardim to Ashkenazy. This is a fact of which I was totally unaware. I am trying to reach someone in Krakow who could confirm the historical facts supporting this statement, or, if I misread it, perhaps explain what was really meant. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. Michael Antin
Posted by: Sarah Lesitzky   (aslesitzky@yahoo.com)   2005-04-05
Finally, finally, finally, a serious article for serious Jewish touring on Krakow. I wish Ruth Gruber would conduct tours herself. You could sign us up right away. And when is a new edition of Jewish Heritage Travel coming out?
Posted by: vladimir dvoretzky   (dvoretzky@yahoo.com)   2005-02-28
What a wonderful article on Jewish Trieste! I am trying to write a study on Joyce's Bulgarian pupils and it provides an invaluable background. Just for your information, the Bulgarian Honorary Consul General was Italo Svevo's brother-in-law, and his children were Joyce's pupils.
Posted by: Ed Behrendt   (Edward@Theus.com)   2004-11-08
What a great article. Thanks I spent 3 years in Trieste and this brought back memories
Posted by: Joseph L.   (josephnl@yahoo.com)   2004-10-25
Just returned from Budapest (a wonderful trip!) and would highly recommend to those interested in a Jewish Tour of this city...Chosen Tours. Phone number is listed in guide books (Frommer's, etc.)...and try to get on Eva's tour!
Posted by: Esther Krieger   (Estherk@visitrochester.com)   2004-07-22
I am thrilled to have this web site so I can go out and purchase Ruth G books! I was honored to be able to visit Budapest and have someone from the Mayor's office take us around and we went to a old beautiful shul designed like a Spanish style and attached to it was a cemetery where our Jewish people were buried who didn't survive the Ghetto which was down the street, and also my guide turned to me and said my wife is jewish even though I am not and told me the whole story of his wife's survival with her family who were starving to death by the end of the war, which made me feel so sad as I experienced first hand the reality of this sad tragic time. I happened to be the only jewish person on the tour and appreciated his kindness by stopping at this beautiful shul.
Posted by: Illés András   (illesa@vnet.hu)   2004-07-12
If you prefer to know more about the Jewish cemeteries of Budapest, pls. visit an informative website,made by myself as a study of a local toursit guide: www.fw.hu/studyjew
Posted by: Illés András   (illesa@vnet.hu)   2004-07-12
As I see, I am the first Hungarian to comment the articles on Hungary. I am a practising tourist guide, driver-guide focusing my 30 years of experience also on the Hungarian Jewry history and I red the TOKAJ article with enthusiasm. I had completed this tour with an American couple, visiting Miskolc and Tokaj country and I would congratulate for the expretness of the writer of this article.
Posted by: Sarah Gittelmann   (SGittelmann2@comcast.net)   2004-07-10
Thank you for the Trieste review! I have never seen anything on Jewish Trieste and this will help in our planning. I need to find out if I can rent a car in Trieste and take it into Slovenia. For a while, this was strictly forbidden by the rental companies. Anyone know different?
Posted by: Allan Blair   (blairaei@hotmail.com)   2003-07-09
My wife and I bring Ruth Gruber's Jewish Heritage Travel with us whenever we travel to this part of the world. To be frank, were it not for Ruth, I don't think anyone would be offering the advice she has given us in this online column, especially on Tokay and Sloevnia. Please do take us to Cracow, Ms Gruber.
Posted by: Irving Roth   (Boston)   2003-06-28
To be truthful, I was getting Slovakia and Slovenia confused untill about ten years ago. Now I get it, especially after I lectured to an MBA program in Bled. I would love to have had this guide with me when I was there, but my wife and I found the country so lovely during our four day stay, I'm sure we'll be back. From our hotel window in Trieste last month, we could actually look up into Slovenia from our hotel window. An inviting little country.
Posted by: Sarah Miller   (dadsweet@earthlink.net)   2003-05-29
I have read Ruth Gruber's travel book on this part of the world, Jewish Heritage Travel. I hope that she will soon "deconstruct" these chapters, country-by-country, so we can get advice while we are on the road in some of these places. For instance, my family will be in Bohemia this summer, and I would love to have some UPDATED information. This is not to say what's provided here isn't great. It is. Now I have some great background material for Slovenia. Thanks!
Posted by: Frieda Rosenzweig   ()   2003-05-02
My family came from south eastern Slovakia, and we made a second roots tour there last year. We found Kosice to be rather more charming than it had been during the communist days. We also drove south, over the border to Hungary, and we visited the places described in this article. I am both thrilled that this guide exists, and furious with myself for not having found these places. But then, how would one? Thank you Ms Gruber.
       
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